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A general introduction to the book-online
‘With a Hat shading the
Light’
To go on line with a book is running against the medium. Something of the
past put into the present. That is why I wrote a summary in english of my
book in dutch, entitled 'With a Hat shading the Light', written in the year
2000 (translation of the dutch title: "Met de Hoed tegen het Licht"). But I
did more.
Five years later I went back to South East Asia and this time I
took a lot of pictures with a digital camera as every modern hiker does. So,
I now present on line a summary of the book, some parts of the text and a
small selection of my pictures. A step forward to modernity.
Apart from this
I selected haikus from my book and translated them. This is what you don’t
do. It is like calling a duck a penguin duck as Alfred Wallace mentioned
they did on Bali. To ease myself I combined haikus with pictures – another
don’t. A haiku is a world in itself. It is just made of words, no other
stuff. Basta.
Why I did this all? It is for the thrill of traveling and
writing. Hopefully you’ll feel the thrill of reading.
"With a Hat shading the Light"
At the end of the year 1999 I traveled in Indonesia, Malaysia and Thailand. I
had been several times in Indonesia as a civil servant of the Netherlands
government. My field of concern in those days was technological cooperation
between the two countries. The large archipelago of islands and its so varied
landscapes of desas and ricefields, of volcanoes and mountains, of its
historical monuments had cast a spell on me. Once upon a day I promised myself
to come back and see Indonesia more in private, to have a look behind the
screens of formality and diplomatic politeness. This time I would go for the
people and their daily life, their traditions and ceremonies, their works of
art, the mysterious ambiance and the beauty of the landscapes so intensely
laboured by the people. The Japanese haiku poet Basho joined me as a poetic
companion and the Portugese author Pessoa helped me to better understand the
invisible things of life. Two strangers in Indonesia, experts however in
observing and poetry.
I traveled in central and eastern Java, the lowlands and the high plateaus, the
crowded cities and the lonely mountains. Apart from Bogor and Bandung with its
colonial and Art Deco reminiscencies, hotels and shop signs, Yogyajakarta, the
kraton of the Sultan and the nearby Buddhist Borobudur and Hinduistic Prambanan
monument I went to the small town of Blitar and its mausoleum of the first
Indonesian President, Sukarno, to Malang and its colonial air and impressive
boulevards, to Jember and the surrounding plantations of coffee and rubber. The
island of Java with her mystery sites and scenery without touristic signs is a
world of contrasts and conflicts, of thriving activity and poverty. Java is an
island of beauty and the ever singing Muëzzin, of overcrowded cities and desas
along never ending roads. Java steals the soul, so I never can leave her behind.
On Bali I stayed at the artistic village of Ubud in the cooler hills, visited
the Pura Besakih, the Gunung Kawi (mountain) and the caves of Goa Gajah. On
Lombok it was the Sasak village of Senaru and a Hindu ceremony that brought me
closer to the original life of the island. In Sulawesi I traveled by public bus
for miles and miles from Makassar in the south to the northern tip, the city of
Menado and stayed for some time in the central region, the Tana Toraja and its
marvelous villages from where I went to see the balconies of the dead, the
wooden well dressed-up puppets ( tau tau) high up in the steep cliff. In
Malaysia I traveled by luxury bus and came along Malakka with still an old Dutch
imprint on the architecture and its colourful Chinatown and Buddhist and Taoist
little temples. Thailand I didn’t know, so I was impressed by the forest of
Buddha temples and its realm of silence in the big, noisy cities of Bangkok and
Chiang Mai. I made day trips to the old capital of Thailand, the complex of
temple ruins in Ayuthaya and to Kanchanaburi, the railway over the River Kwae
and the well kept war cemetery. To escape the crowds and the loudness I went on
jungle trekking for some days and returned after three days to go home, to the
little island of Curacao in the Caribbean. This is the topographic side of the
medal.
In this booklet however I try to do more than just telling this story of my
travel. With the help of Basho I make notes and use the haiku technique to bring
together my observations and the wanderings of the mind. So, I write about
little things such as a morning stroll in the sawas (ricefields), the
pinpointing of my mosquito net in a hostel, the minibus as a high pressure
cooker of passengers, the royal divings of a kingfisher, a horror story ( guna
guna) in the night, a canoe and hidden crocodiles, the daily loneliness of a
Dutch speaking shopkeeper, gold fishes in a lake, the burning of fragrance
sticks in a Chinese temple, the buy of a Buddha image on a market, a stony
turtle and a bat, the smoking of opium by an old woman. All stories, histories,
happenings and reflections on the little things of daily life.
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